Three Days in Positano

Once a humble fishing village, Positano now ranks among Italy’s most glamorous coastal retreats. Terraces frame the blue-green sweep of the Tyrrhenian, hand-painted ceramic shops line its lanes, and groves of sun-bright lemons scent the air at every turn. Our first visit was for our honeymoon, when we spent 5 nights at the iconic Le Sirenuse. We've been back several times since, and this year we were excited to return in early June with our 4 month old baby in tow.

Checking into Hotel Marincanto felt like stepping straight into a sun-washed daydream. Carved into Positano’s cliffside, the property pairs dolce-vita glamour with the easy comforts a young family craves. Our freshly renovated room (#212) was a tiny jewel box, its cobalt-and-emerald tiles gleaming beneath vaulted ceilings. Two balconies framed rival panoramas—one of pastel houses stacked like sweets, the other of uninterrupted Mediterranean blue—while the generous square footage easily accommodated a travel crib. From the lobby, a zigzag ribbon of roughly two hundred steps carried us down to the hotel’s private beach club, where we enjoyed swims in the soft light of early morning and golden hour. When naptime called, we climbed back up to our room and sipped espresso on our private balcony while the baby slept. When the midday crowds in town were at their peak, we'd wander over to the panoramic sundeck; cushioned loungers and crisp white umbrellas turned it into our open-air living room. We would absolutely stay here again!

In Italy, meals were rituals in themselves and we loved the terrace restaurant at our hotel. At breakfast we lingered over still-warm cornetti and espresso, the sea sparkling beyond the terrace rail. One evening, as sun set, we claimed a corner table in the hotel restaurant Terrazze Cele, toasted with chilled rosé, and watched Positano glitter to life while a perfectly flaky seabass al limone arrived from the kitchen—proof that you can savor fine dining with a baby in your arms.

Franco’s Bar sits just above Le Sirenuse, a two-minute walk from Marincanto, and its open-air terrace is one of the easiest places in town to catch the sunset without committing to a full dinner. Doors slide open around 5:30 p.m., but the queue often starts 15-30 minutes earlier, so arrive on the early side if you want a front-row table. Though if the sun is out seats right at the edge can be uncomfortably hot and I'd recommend a table in shade on the banquette to the right as you enter (see photo above!), or in the shade of the central lemon tree. Staff will usher you to a low marble bistro table where the soundtrack is equal parts DJ set and clinking ice. Go straight for the house lemon-basil spritz or a classic negroni (our favorite) then pace yourself with the complimentary popcorn and olives—ordering food isn’t required though premium tables have a minimum spend, but a small plate of prosciutto-wrapped melon helps stretch your stay. Card payments are fine; tipping in cash is appreciated. If the wind picks up, ask for one of the light blankets they keep behind the bar. It's a really fun vibe and our son wasn't the only baby in the bar!

Reaching Da Adolfo is half the fun: look for the wooden boat flying a red fish flag at Spiaggia Grande and hop aboard for the ten-minute ride down the coast (tickets are free but reservations are essential—have your hotel call ahead to book your table, or call the same morning at 9 a.m. to snag last minute cancellations). Seating is a mix of rough-hewn tables under a thatched roof and sunbeds on the sand; both deliver the same menu. Start with the grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves, add the spaghetti alle vongole, and finish with whatever whole fish they hauled in that day. Everything runs on island time; so expect to stay awhile - order an extra espresso or take a swim to fill the time as you wait for the boat back to town.

La Scogliera Beach Club may sit just a few hundred yards beyond Spiaggia Grande and right next to Marincanto's Beach Club, but its mood is pure hide-away: teak platforms cling to the cliff face, double sun-beds are dressed in crisp white towels, and all you hear is the slap of water against the rocks below. We didn’t carve out a day here, yet every time we rounded the corner on the coastal path its happy striped umbrellas and swimming platforms begged for a photograph. If you’re tempted, book online at least a week ahead—the club caps daily numbers and leans adults-only—then arrive early to claim a front-row mattress (the premium “Infinity” spots practically hover over the sea). Entry isn’t cheap, but it includes towels, waiter service, and a welcome glass of prosecco; lunch is a short climb up to the terrace restaurant where crudo and cold rosé rule the menu.

Just off Via dei Mulini, Palazzo Murat’s Bar Le Petit Murat feels worlds away from the busy shopping street outside: candlelit tables sit beneath orange trees, and the only noise comes from a quietly humming fountain. Book ahead and request “il giardino” seating to avoid the interior dining room. We skipped the tasting menu and built our own “snack-style” dinner—truffled burrata, fried zucchini blossoms, a massive charcuterie board and the best negronis of the trip. Portions are generous, and the charcuterie plate we ordered was almost overwhelming for two. The courtyard is stroller-friendly, and highchairs appear in seconds if you need one. Service starts at 7 p.m.; show up on time and you’ll finish before the late-night crowd arrives. The property was beautiful and friends have stayed here before and recommend it - perhaps we'll try it out next time!

Notes on traveling with an infant: Getting around Positano with a four-month-old is all about traveling light and timing your outings. Instead of wrestling a stroller up endless stone staircases, we relied on a soft carrier that kept our hands free and our son content. We planned strategic siestas during the hottest stretch of the day—from about 1 to 4 p.m.—retreating to the shade of our balcony for feedings and naps. Packing was equally tactical: I saw diapers and wipes at local pharmacies, but was advised to bring plenty of swim diapers and baby sunscreen from home. Evenings started early; most restaurants open in time for us to settle in, watch the sky fade to pink, linger over dessert, and still make it back to the room before bedtime. It was nice that our baby boy wasn't mobile yet, as it would be a lot more work to chase a toddler around, though we did see a few other families do it!